Back in 2009 when I first set foot in Ho Chi Minh City, I couldn’t stop raving about it.
I loved its people and its food, and not even its motorbikes could dampen my strong feelings for the city. I went back there three more times and only had positive experiences, so I couldn’t understand why a lot of travelers hated Vietnam.
The fourth time that I returned to Saigon, in December last year, I finally understood why.
A street vendor with her wares.
Popular travel blogger Matt Kepnes says that he will never return to Vietnam. He said that “no one ever wants to return to a place where they felt they were treated poorly… [he was] constantly hassled, overcharged, ripped off, and treated badly by the locals.”
I witnessed this personally last December when I went with an American friend to Ben Thanh Market. I had been there several times before but I was never harassed. The salesladies would call out to me, I would just shake my head, and that was it.
When I was with my friend, however, things got a bit uglier. I was looking at a pair of jeans while he just waited off to the side. I had paid for my purchase and we were about to leave, when suddenly, two salesladies got hold of his shirt and tried to physically stop him from leaving. They were pulling at him in opposite directions, demanding that he buy something.
The busy Ben Thanh Market.
I was aghast. While I had read that vendors there could get aggressive, I had never seen it firsthand. My friend, understandably, was very pissed off, and it wasn’t the last time he was harassed in Vietnam. Like Matt, he, too, was overcharged several times (from Saigon to Hanoi), was ripped off by xe om (motorcycle) and cab drivers, and generally had an overall negative experience in Vietnam.
There was another incident that affected my feelings for Saigon. I had been staying for several days in a guesthouse in De Tham St. and I had felt very comfortable there. I had a dorm bed for $6 (free breakfast and wifi!) and I loved it.
One of the many cyclo drivers in Saigon.
One day, a German friend waited for me outside the hostel and a xe om driver came up to him and chatted up with him a bit. When my friend told the driver that he was waiting for me (“a friend”), the driver said (non-verbatim), “Ah, the Filipina? You should be careful with her. She had been here several times and had scammed a lot of foreigners. She even invited an Australian to go with her to the Philippines and robbed him there!”
I was amused at first when I heard the story from my friend. It was only later on that I got upset. I knew that it didn’t mean anything, and of course, my friend never took him seriously. However, the incident made me feel bad. According to my friend, the driver was really trying to convince him that he knew me to be a scammer personally.
I didn’t (and I still don’t) understand what the driver was trying to gain by discrediting me. Did he want my friend to go with him somewhere? Did he want money for his “tip”? Whatever the intention was, the incident left a bad taste in my mouth, and I know I will never see Vietnam the same way again.
Saigon souvenir (2009 ).
Looking back on it, and on my previous trips to Vietnam, I think I could identify the reason why my first three trips there were uneventful while the last one was not.
When I went to Saigon in 2009 and 2010, I stayed in District 3, in a guesthouse within a residential area. My landlady was the nicest person ever, and the only tourists I saw were the ones in the Ben Thanh Market.
Last year, however, I stayed for more than a week in District 1, which is HCMC’s backpacker district. It’s chock full of tourists, which are a major source of income for local businesses, and maybe it has affected (some of) the locals and made them the way they are in relation to the visitors in their country.
Maybe if–and when–I go back to Vietnam, I should stick to less touristy places. Maybe by being in contact with the “real” Saigonites, I could learn to love Saigon again.
Read this post to know more about Vietnam safety. You can also read this Ho Chi Minh City Travel Guide.
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Ho Chi Minh 2020 has also had many changes. beautiful and friendly people.
Hope you will come back to Vietnam again.
Thank you for sharing
Great post. I have only been to Vietnam once but I was definitely left with a 50/50 impression. Due to my travel companion we went to most the touristic spots and although I think he enjoyed it, I was left with a distaste in my mouth that I looked like a dollar bill with legs.
I have been to a number of SouthEast Asian countries and unfortunately I would have to say that after my experience, despite meeting some lovely people (and the incredible food) Vietnam was my *least* favourite.
I love to see how the view of a multiple-time traveler to Vietnam changes and the different experiences she encountered. I agree with you that in District 1, it is a lot more touristy, and many Vietnamese people around the area try to take advantage of this. But in less touristy areas, people are actually a lot friendlier.
Also, it’s helpful to know a few basic Vietnamese phrases to scare the local scammers away. I hope it helps next time you come back! Let me know your thoughts.
Dear Aleah, knowing you by chance searching for traveller’s tips for my trip to Bangkok, I feel happy reading your blog. Like the way you see things 🙂 I’ve been to your country in 2014, that trip was wonderful with blue sky, white cows, green rolling hills… Batanes, you know it! 🙂 Just a bit shock when following the link to your Viet Nam trip recently. Send you a friend’s huge from Viet Nam, really want to say sorry for what my people did to you.. Yes, what a shame! There’re goods and bads existing together almost everywhere, within almost everyone in this world, right? Even it’s painful to you, to me, to other people when confronting with the bad, I still love my country and other countries also, because of the good side of each. Next time, give Viet Nam a chance and I’ll show you around Ha Noi – my hometown, show you the beauty of my country, a small corner of the world that we live together, wish you don’t feel being betrayed anymore, my friend.
I was solo travelling Saigon November 2014, I was harassed by a xe om driver asking me to pay him 1.5 million Dong for a very very short distance (I just want to experience riding xe om). When I started to refuse paying that huge amount, he started dragging me and demanding me to pay him 1.5 million Dong. I was scared so I started talking loud and asking for help but he really don’t want to let go without getting my $50, so I just gave it away – lesson learned. Thanks to the people in nearby shops who helped me.
Thanks everyone because commented about Vietnam/Saigon.
This called another side of Vietnam.. It happens every where in the world.. It’s dangerous when live in some countries even in Europe
@ Ian: I still love Saigon too, and I’m hoping next time will be better. That incident with the shirt is very common. Lesson learned hehe
@ Getting close to: Agree!
What a shame! But at least this is a reminder not to be blinded by the tourist-aimed parts of a country or city. Stay free, stay independent!
Hi Aleah, I’ve been a lurker in your blog but now I just want to thank you for your Vietnam posts, they really helped me get around Saigon. I just came back. I was actually hesitant to go after hearing a lot of awful things about the place but in the end, I found the city quite charming and I couldn’t wait to go back to HCMC!
The worst thing that happened to me was that I bought a shirt that I aggressively haggled to 120,000VND in Benh Tanh Market – only to find out later that the same shirt could be bought for 50,000VND (without haggling) somewhere near my hotel. Sucks.
I stayed in District 1. I agree about staying out of the place. So many backpackers with booze and prostitutes by their side. Aside from scammy locals, maraming mga bastos na turista na wagas makamura sa mga locals.
Still I loved Saigon and I shall be back. 🙂
@ Frank: It’s nice to go to Dist 1 for dinner or for a beer, but not to stay in. Lessons learned 🙂
@ Mike Huxley: Yeah, it happens to a lot of top tourist places, but I was just surprised that I was targeted personally by that driver. So weird.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said you need to get away from the touristy areas sometimes.
I’ve experienced this in many cities, from Bangkok to Mumbai, Mexico to Belize, it is not just Vietnam believe me.
The problem is where there are tourist/backpacker ghettos, lots of tourists and backpackers will head straight there, and so will all the touts/scam artists and rip off merchants because they know that is where the money is. Those that simply stay in these touristy areas, and yes that includes Nomadic Matt for his now infamous article, will encounter nothing but these people and it can become very, very tiresome.
The answer is simple, head to places that are away from all that as well. By all means see all the touristy sites, but don’t JUST see them and nothing else.
Interesting – never been to Vietnam but I’ve heard these very different experiences as well. I’ll remember not to stay in District 1.
Frank (bbqboy)
@ Jaklien: Agree. 🙂
@ Carlo: 4 million dong? That’s really crazy! Am glad nothing happened to you and your friend!
Heard lots of stories with HCMC so me and my dutch travel buddy went to Hanoi and started from there the next thing we knew was that we are being charged with 4,000,000 dong for a 5 minute cab ride. My friend got so angry he started to grab the guy’s shirt which automatically frightened the guy and moreover I was more frightened since we are in a foreign territory and I would not want us to end up getting beaten by the locals. In the end we had the cab ride for free. That’s the closest experience I had in Vietnam but as much as I hate to say it these things happen everywhere and it’s unavoidable. let’s just put it in a way that “if your travel memories are too good and perfect then it is boring”. Great post!
Don’t hate the whole country for these individuals. I’ve been scammed in Vietnam, Indonesia, Cuba and even here in the UK. There are bad people everywhere you go, but there are also good people everywhere you go.
@ Beyond my Front Door: I’m used to hassling touts. What I’m used to is being called a scammer by someone who doesn’t know me LOL
@ Jonathan: Good luck. You’ll enjoy HCMC though. I loved it!
Great post! I’ve been ripped off by a taxi driver in Buenos Aires, but I don’t think it will be possible for me to blend in with the locals. I’d still like to visit Vietnam though. I’ll be sure to stick to the non touristy places. 🙂
Ahh I’m sorry to hear about your situation here. That is terrible, and more so for your friend which was his first time. I’ve experience some hassling touts and store owners in some places, but generally not as bad as some of the ones you discussed.
@ Dennis: I’ve stayed there for several days, and the driver usually stays outside the hostel, waiting for passengers. He could have asked the hostel staff. Really weird.
@ Apol: Yeah, there’s a huge difference in the prices. My strategy is to think of a fair price to pay, in our currency, and just convert it. Benh Thanh is fun, if you don’t get harassed. LOL
@ Jay Exiomo: Being with locals is the best way to see the city!
Wow. As unpleasant locals go, that driver takes the cake. So sorry about your experience. I’ve been to Vietnam just once, and had a really good (not great, but good nonetheless) experience, as most of the locals we met were helpful. Some were not, though I think that was less apathy than shyness on their part. I’m planning to return to Vietnam sometime next year, and will be traveling with a local friend, so hopefully that would be enough to keep the touts away.
My negative experience in Vietnam also happened in Ben Thanh. We were looking for a certain style of souvenir shirt. Inside Ben Thanh, we stumbled upon a stall that overcharged us. They were almost harassing us, but maintained those smiles on their faces. The husband was already quite annoyed and was giving in. He was pulling out some bills already to pay and I couldn’t stop him because another lady was talking to me and distracting me, preventing me from saying anything to my husband. We paid for the overcharged shirt and later that night, we saw the same kind of shirt outside ben thanh. It was wayyyy cheaper.
I was irritated because there was a big difference in the price! But I just charged it to experience. Will not buy anything from Ben Thanh everrrr again.
Some foreign place we visit unfortunately has jerks like that driver you mentioned. While I’ve only been once to HCMC, my experiences there were positive at least. I’d like to agree in your assessment about choosing the right neighborhood in a foreign city. Tourist meccas tend to make opportunists out of some locals and you unfortunately became a victim. It’s quite weird how this jerk got to know you’re even from the Philippines!
@ Jeryc: Haha, too true!
@ Jo: Agree, especially in very touristy places!
@ Freddie Miranda: Care to share what the third incident was? 😉
While it is true that any untoward incident can happen anywhere while travelling, the driver fabricated lies is unacceptable. Your bad experience in Vietnam will serve as a good tip for us who have not been there.
My trips to HongKong are the worst. I have been there thrice. Incidents happened on all those trips at the airport, in the market and in fabric shops. We learned a lesson as the third incident is untolerable.
HK is terrible, rude mofos, pushy, loud, obnoxious, goddamn police and authorities are all in on whatever scam and crime is dished up!! Ive been going to HK for 26 years and would like to warn everyone. Just as bad is Bangkok in particular and Thailand in general…of course China can be a real nightmare! London was a dumb too…
Nicest place in Asia is undoubtedly Philippines head and shoulders, and I especially love Mindanao…
Yes, Vietnam is a weird place, but it’s wonderful at the same time. I had some strange encounters there, but still think it’s a great place.
Things like the ones that happened to you might happen in other countries, too though!
Never. Ever. Stay. At. The. Backpacker’s. District.
@ Lifeisacelebration: Yeah, it does!
@ Grasya: I stayed and was with local friends the first 3 times I was there, so yeah, I agree with you completely. Next time, I’ll do that again!
Really sorry to read this, hope you don’t get to experience this on your next visit!
I was staying with Vietnamese friends who protected me while I was there and I do hope I will not experience what you went thru in my future visits..
Likewise, I’ll do the same when my Vietnamese friends visits other dangerous areas in the Philippines too :))
Guess hanging out with trusted locals really helped me a lot during travels.
Now, that really sucks!
@ Josiah: I will ALWAYS love Vietnamese food, no matter what my experience there will be! LOL
@ Reiza: I was affected because that driver specifically targeted me. He didn’t talk about a random Filipina, but me! hahaha I’m over it now of course, but I’m not going back to Vietnam any time soon.
Oh, so sorry to hear that, Aleah. It’s so strange that the tricycle driver would even get to that point. But as you say, it might all boil down to them earning a few dollars. Tourists might have contributed to it, but then again, it’s not an excuse for that rude and unacceptable behavior! I loved Vietnam, I still do. Been there twice and planning to go back. So far all my experiences have been positive, but maybe because I was always in a group. Or maybe because I was just too dense. Take heart, Aleah, I’m sure Vietnam will make up for it if you give it another chance.
Been to HCMC only once and I had a great time that I want to go back, especially for the food.
I do understand that these things happen almost everywhere, but the guy telling your friend that you’re a scammer was way off the line.
I hope these things does not happen again on your travels.
@ Pinay Flying High: Looking forward to read your Thai post. I’ve had my credit cards stolen in Bangkok (first time ever) but as I was partly responsible (I wasn’t careful enough), it didn’t turn me off the country.
@ Eileen: I had read your post on that cycle driver. Unbelievable. And yeah, kalurky talaga!
When I was there and scammed by a cyclo guy, that was pretty bad. When I was *slightly* harrassed by vendors over at Ben Thanh, I was alright with thtat. The morning after has come and I have the ability to laugh about it now. I just charge it all to experience.
They were pretty harrowing, in my own way, but I don’t think that it would be a cause for me to totally NOT go back to it. I’d still go back and experience it all over again – minus the being scammed part. 🙂
Although kainis the youre-a-scammer kind of accusation, what does he have to gain from it ba? kalurky!!!
I am trying to figure out what was the purpose of saying lies about you. Yes, it must have sound funny at first – I would’ve taken it lightly as well but it doesn’t make much sense really. Why would he even think of saying that?
On a related note, I am currently in Thailand and have spent a few days in Bangkok. I used to love Bangkok but then this trip has changed my views of it altogether. It’s like the whole city is ganged up against the tourists. 🙁
Agree, BKK is the pits!!
@ Alaina: Wow, I admire you for still experiencing good things in your trip despite the loss. It would’ve really soured my experience since I can’t afford to buy a new one right now. I have heard that there are a lot of motorbike thieves in HCMC. A fellow guest in the hostel I’ve stayed in there had her bag snatched while she was walking in De Tham.
@ Jardness: Haven’t been to Mui Ne yet but I’ve been to Da Lat already. Agree with you, it’s such a nice highland city! I was also scammed in Jakarta, but as you said, as a traveler, it happens often, no matter how much you try to be careful.
I just visited Vietnam last May. Had a wonderful experience at Mui Ne and Dalat. Can’t say the same with Ho Chi Minh.. it’s like a shopping place now. I see many malaysians there shopping at Ben Thanh. hehehe.
Being scammed is what I call normal I guess.. even in my own country I can get scammed. Huhu.
I got robbed of my new SLR on my first day in Vietnam (and the first day of an 11 month trip) by motorbike thieves in Chinatown in HCH. Luckily the rest of my experience was amazing. Agree that the aggressive nature of some can ruin a trip for many.
@ Cha: Let me know when you go. I’m sure you’ll love the trip!
@ Marky: Yeah, hate is a strong word. Forgot to change the URL when I hit publish haha Have fun in Hanoi!
‘same same’ as other South East nations, scammers exist, but i dont think its enough t8 generalize and feel a strong emotion as hate. though been there only once, 2nd time this dec at hanoi.
Being a Filipina as well, I am enraged at what that xe om driver did to you.
I am planning of a Cambodia-Thailand-Vietnam trip for next year, and this will surely help.
@ Midzung: I really look forward to it. The locals I contacted again when I went back there last year had already moved to Hanoi, which was why I stayed at the backpacker district (also because it’s cheaper there along De Tham).
@ Stef: Hey I’m sorry to hear you’ve had a very negative experience in Manila. I don’t think I remember that. Did you share it on FB? Let me know when you’re going to Vietnam, I have more tips 😀
The closest I got to being “harassed” was in Beijing at a local flea market, where these salesladies kept badgering me and my sisters to buy, to the point that one of their tactics was to ask where we’re from and to see our Philippine peso bills. Thank goodness they returned it to us.
I’d be devastated if I was in your place and had heard what the xe om driver had said. But I agree with Rosie that such an experience can happen anywhere you go (these days). I just keep telling myself to be cautious, protective of my belongings, and most importantly respectful to the locals. If I could avoid any unnecessary contact, so much the better.
I guess you can say I’ve become quite cautious, even cynical, when approached by strangers due to a past hurt that left me shocked and frightened for months. This is in Manila. I hope you’re next visit to Vietnam will be better again. I’ve only read their literature, and I’m hoping to visit the place someday. Good tip about staying in non-touristy spots.
Hi, I am a Vietnamese and I have lived in Saigon before. Though I completely understand your experience and how bad you must feel about it, you know that is just the touristy side of a city–it happens everywhere, even in famed Paris. Next time if I’m back in Saigon and you wanna visit again, I’m sure you will have an unforgettable time with me as a guide. My Singaporean friends who visited me last year went back this summer because they had such an awesome time! 🙂
@ S. Shankar: Vietnam is a beautiful country! As Rosie said above, if you go to the countryside and in areas not as congested with tourists as the backpacker district, you should be fine. 😀 Re: eating Indian food in a Vietnamese stand in Singapore–that is soooo funny 😀
@ Gelo: Maybe I’ll just avoid the backpacker district next time 😀
i’ve never been to vietnam so i cannot relate to the place but based on your story, i cannot blame you for having such impression.
perhaps, it’ll be a happier experience when you visit the other spots from the same country.
Ouch! That sucks. I can understand how you felt after that. So sorry about that, but happy to see you have taken it in your stride and have moved on.
Vietnam is one place that has been on my bucket list. I’ll get there someday. I’m looking at the visa regs for Indian nationals, as there is no consulate here in Dubai and I’m not too clear about the ‘visa on arrival’ procedure for that country.
I have been fascinated by Vietnam, especially after seeing a video on Lonely Planet and after hearing so much about it. War apart, I’d also heard about snake wine, and the tailor scam and crossing and road and pushy sales folk and what have you. A Polish/German lady friend of mine had been there a couple of years ago and said, never again will she go there.
Although I have not visited Vietnam (yet), I did feel a tad uncomfortable about that country once, back in 2009, and in Singapore, of all the places. I was strolling through the food/ eateries district along the banks of the Singapore River, around 7-ish, when it had just gotten dark and when the food stalls were coming to life. Many stall people (Thai, Indian, Malaysian, Chinese, local–)were soliciting, thrusting menu cards into my face etc. Of course, as a non white single male, the soliciting was not too pushy or too intimidating. Till I came to this Vietnamese food stall.
Here two girls came right out of their stand, each one tugging at each arm and forcefully trying to get me into their stand. We even have Indian food, they said. (now why would I like to eat Indian food in a Vietnamese food stand?) I had quite a time extricating myself from them and going on my way.
That increased my fascination for the country though. I’ll get there sometime.
@ Cindy: I agree with you 100% that the same place can feel different every time we visit. I’m pretty sure I’ll love Vietnam again the next time I go!
@ Rosie: I’ve stayed with locals in Vietnam and really loved it. If you read my early posts on HCM you will see how much I raved about the city. I do agree that there are Filipinos there who scam. I also contributed to Kate’s blog post as I do love Vietnam, primarily because of its people. It’s why I felt betrayed on my last trip there. I didn’t expect it, which was a bit naive of me 🙂
Sorry to hear about your story.
It’s true that some of the shops in Ben Thanh market and places in backpacker area in Saigon usually overcharge tourists, especially foreign tourists. The double price policy for locals and foreigners in Vietnam is a long story.
But the truth is it’s almost the same every where you go. Inside the tourist area, you are ripped off, treated badly, cheated, robbed, etc… It gets worse in the big cities. But once you get out of the tourist place, locals open their arms to welcome you and greet you with warm smile. In Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, Greece or Italy.
If you come back to Vietnam, try going to the countryside, locals even invite us to their house, offer their best place to sleep, give their best food, and treat you like you are a long lost daughter, even if they don’t understand what you are saying. That time you’ll understand what is called: “Vietnam’s hidden charm”. Some of the travellers I knew spent their time in Mekong Delta, or in the middle of Vietnam, and told me amazing stories about the locals they met on the way.
Regarding what the driver told, he might be mistook you with other Fillipino, or just saying his prejudice about some Fillipino in Saigon. The fact is there are several Fillipino in Saigon, pretending to be Vietnamese and with their good english (better than the locals), they make up poker scam gang, robbing, or doing prostitution for their living. Vietnamese people just feel angry because this minority of Fillipino ruin Vietnam’s image in tourists’ eyes. So when telling about a Fillipino, the locals around may have bad judgement.
I’m not trying to defend my country here. I do understand Vietnam tourism has a long way to go comparing with the neighbor countries like Thailand, Phillipines or Malaysia. But I am giving the view from a different angle that tourists may not see. Matt Kepnes doesn’t return to Vietnam, maybe Vietnam and him don’t have the same vibes, But his friend Kate has a different view @ http://www.adventurouskate.com/ask-kate-is-vietnam-as-bad-as-nomadic-matt-says/. And I do hope you’ll find Vietnam your favorite country again when you come back next time.
It’s funny how one can experience the same place in such different ways, how each place is different every time we visit. Thanks for sharing your story. I’m still looking forward to visiting there someday myself. Since I generally avoid the backpacker areas, I’ll hope my experience is more like your previous visits than your last one.
Remember, there are always a few jerks everywhere – you can’t let a few of them take a place you love from you!
@ Bert: I would have, if I thought of it 😀
@ Stvolpina: Thanks!
@ Photo Cache: It really is best to stay and be with locals, not in the very touristy places!
Oh I’m sorry you had to experience the ugly side of traveling too.
That was really a low blow by that unscrupulous driver. Sinampal mo sana 🙂
I’ve always wanted to see Vietnam and I probably still will (when I save enough). We have friends from Vietnam who still have lots of family back home. We are hoping we could get hooked up when we go visit so we’d be less harassed if ever.
useful tips!
It might have been just a waste of your time but you should have confronted that driver and give him a piece of your mind or a fist to his lying mouth. What a jerk!!
@ Salika: The use of local vs tourist prices is so prevalent nowadays in tourist areas!
@ Gaye: I hope you won’t ever experience a negative one too. Vietnam is lovely!
Ugh! Kakahighblood si kuya! Been to Vietnam twice, both in HCM lang. No unpleasant encounters. And hopefully there will never be when we visit the third time someday.
I think it’s quite common that tourists get different prices but this is something entirely different. Hope not all areas are not like that.
@ Angela: I felt betrayed because I really loved it the first three times I went there. 🙁
@ Cat: I hope so too, and wish my next time there would be better.
I am AGHAST at what the motorcycle driver said! I hope that you make it back and see the goodness of those who live outside the backpacking district.
That sucks! When I was in Vietnam I couldn’t understand either why everyone was hating on Vietnam. I had a great time there. But I do understand people’s feelings about being overcharged and so on. It’s a shame the people in Saigon let you down like this