Are you backpacking India soon? After years and years of just wishing for it, I finally made it to India early this year, visiting six northern cities for three weeks (I’m a slow traveler!).
Some of the beliefs I’d had of the country was merely confirmed (yep, cows are everywhere), while others were relegated to the realms of myths. I do wish I took the time to learn Hindi; while most Indians can speak English, there’s nothing like learning the language to connect more with locals!
One thing was clear, though: Incredible India was everything I had expected, and more! Here’s a brief write-up of the cities I visited when I backpacked in northern India.
Kolkata was my entry and exit point in India. Somehow, it didn’t occur to me that I could arrive there and fly out in another city, otherwise, I could have saved a lot of time. However, I do love taking overnight trains, and the Rajdhani Express from New Delhi to Kolkata was certainly the best one I’d taken.
My first meal in India was the vegetable thali in Kolkata.
My first impressions of Kolkata included it being very noisy; I couldn’t understand why, even when there was no need to do so, motorists persisted in honking all the time. Honk, honk, honk.
Still, I found Kolkata warm and welcoming. My Couchsurfing hosts—Swarnab and Rita—pulled out all the stops to make sure that I had fun in their city. We went out to local restaurants, watched a three-hour movie documentary about the revolution in Bangladesh, and went to dinner with Swarnab’s mother.
I loved my roommate in Kolkata.
The icing on the cake was the couple’s cats; they could have been horrible to me (fortunately, they were the opposite!) and I would still love them, all because of their babies!
After four days, I bid goodbye to my hosts and their cats and made my way to Howrah, Kolkata’s railway station, to go to Bodh Gaya. Nothing prepared me for it; the station was so big and so full of people that I finally realized I was no longer in familiar territory. This was, indeed, India.
The glorious Victoria Memorial
When my train pulled into the station, I had mistakenly thought that the last car was where I was supposed to be. I saw hordes of people lining up to enter it; and thinking it was what everyone was supposed to do, I lined up as well.
Using all my guile and wiliness, I managed to get a seat by the window, besting quite a few people who had also made a beeline for it.
With seemingly hundreds of people rushing to get a seat, it definitely was a huge feat for me to get one by the window! Minutes after I had secured my seat, virtually all available space around me was taken up by other passengers. The long seat meant for one person (lying down) had five people in it; a similar single seat across me was taken up by two people.
Even the luggage rack above my head had people sitting down on it, too. It was definitely crazy.
Some people had tried sharing my single seat but I resolutely refused. I had paid 800 rupees for my ticket and I thought I deserved a seat all to myself. I remember thinking that it was definitely not worth the money I’d paid.
Downtown Kolkata
“Is this how I’m supposed to travel in India?” I remember thinking, dismayed by the thought of the discomfort of the hours-long trip. There were people all around me—no space was wasted; people were even sitting down on the floor.
Suddenly, a railway official doing last minute checks spotted me. From the train window, he asked for my ticket, then he told me I was in the wrong car. Unfortunately, it wasn’t until the next station that I was finally taken to the seat I had paid for (stepping on quite a few fingers and toes on my way out of the train)—a sleeper in an air-conditioned compartment, with none of the crowd in the general compartment.
I was amazed; people travel so differently in India, even on the same train!
From Kolkata, I spent two nights in Bodh Gaya. I made my rounds among the temples there and spent some time in Mahabodhi, the place where Buddha gained enlightenment.
I had lassi, went around with other hostel guests, celebrated Holi in advance with the schoolchildren, and saw my picture get published in their local and national newspapers. (Read: Celebrating Holi Festival in Bodh Gaya)
Praying under the Bodhi tree where Buddha reached Enlightenment.
Our Holi photo was published in national dailies.
If you ever make it to Bodh Gaya, do stay in the Bowl of Compassion, the guesthouse where I’d stayed. Founded by a Couchsurfing member from Germany, it’s the fundraising arm of a non-profit which gives free education to over 80 children in the area. For only 200 rupees a night, it’s definitely worth it!
From Bodh Gaya, I took the overnight train to Varanasi, India’s oldest city and one of its holiest. It lies on the banks of the Ganges River and still practices the death ritual it’s known for: the burning of their dead. When I was there, I saw no floating dead bodies on the river, but I had indeed seen bodies being cremated the traditional way.
Going on a sunrise tour of the Ganges is a must.
It was in Varanasi when I felt, for the first time, how vulnerable I was as a solo female traveler. Walking along the river bank with two Canadians, I became a victim of Eve teasing. I had met so many wonderful friends in my four days of stay in the city, but I will never forget how it felt to be so helpless that day.
When it was time to leave for Agra, I couldn’t wait. Taj Mahal was there, and I knew that Agra would in some ways make me forget what happened in Varanasi.
I had initially planned on staying two nights in Agra, thinking I’d go to the Taj Mahal on my second day. However, I arrived there at 6am, and with my hotel so close to the West Gate, I had decided to see the sunrise immediately after my arrival.
The soft colors of Taj Mahal at sunrise.
I have read in blogs that Agra—being a highly touristy city because of the Taj Mahal—could be tough to foreigners. However, compared to Varanasi, it felt very tame to me.
I went to the Taj Mahal (use the West Gate and go early to avoid the crowds) and stayed there until 9am, then walked around afterwards. By dawn the next day, I was on my way to Jaipur.
Jaipur was the India I had wanted to see for a long time. It is an old city, gritty and grimy and full of touts accosting you on the streets and taking you on a ride to get commissions from shops selling silks and bags, scarves and other knickknacks.
Tiger Fort in Jaipur.
However, Jaipur had so much charm I was completely bowled over. I had originally planned on staying only for two days, planning to see Udaipur afterwards, but I decided to extend for two more nights, content to just walk around the city. Whatever love for India that I felt had vanished in Varanasi returned tenfold in Jaipur. I could have stayed there forever.
Finally, though, I had to make my way to Delhi. I took the bus, and was met at the terminal by an Indian Express journalist who interviewed me about my experience of solo travel in India. I stayed in the house of a local family—a father, mother, and two sisters so kind that I only felt love and care in their house.
I went out and explored Delhi everyday that I was there, and they were full of advices and suggestions for me, including going on a food tour in Delhi. My stay in the city was made much more memorable with the friendships of Shipra, Neha, and Priyanka, three modern Indian women whose friendship I will always treasure.
Ancient structures in Jantar Mantar, New Delhi.
The huge India Gate in New Delhi.
Months after my northern India backpacking trip, I wondered if my experiences would have been different if I didn’t go by myself. Then I realized that it doesn’t matter; I travel whether I had companions or not, and not even Varanasi could make me afraid of continuing to travel alone.
I had taken all the precautions I could as a solo traveler there, and what happened had already happened.
Onboard the Rajdhani Express, on my way back to Kolkata.
India had not always been kind to me when I met her, but I know that someday, I will be back, not only for the food that I loved there and for the friendships I had made, but more importantly, for the country itself with so much history and contradictions. It is Incredible India indeed!
49 Comments. Leave new
Oh. My. God! You entered a general compartment in train, and survived for more than a station? And you managed to get a window seat and hold your ground. Wow.. You are tougher than you realize.
I know you wrote this 2 years ago but thanks for this. 🙂 I’ve got a 3 week trip coming up for India and was unsure about what to do or even if I could do it alone. (It’s been about 4 years since I backpacked alone.) I do actually feel more comfortable now (even though that happened to you in Varanasi – so sorry about that!). I think hearing that a fellow female managed to do it solo really makes it feel like I can do it too. 🙂
Hello Aleah!
I’ve been wanting to try couch surfing for a long time and I was thinking about finally trying it out on my planned trip to India.
My question is, seeing how u opted for couch surfing in India, weren’t you met with unnecessary interrogations from immigration officers regarding where you’ll stay during your trip?
I remember getting away with not preparing accommodations prior to my flight in Malaysia years back. But Im just asking as the case might be different here in India.
Thanks
@ Stefania: You should make time to go. 🙂
Loving to read about your adventures in India: it’s a country I’ve always wanted to visit!!!
@ Joshua: Not all. I booked Agra to Jaipur via my hotel, and got the bus from Jaipur to Delhi.
@ Jyothis Joy: Kerala’s really highly recommended. Will make sure to go south next time.
@ Noelle: Yeah, would love to go back, too. India’s huge!
Hi Aleah! Lovely to read this post – stayed for six weeks in India back in 2011. Now I want to go back and visit Kolkata – didn’t make it there last time 🙁
Hi,
If you are ever coming back to Inida. Just visit the south.
Be there in Kerala, – God’s own country, land of spices, there are lots of descriptions. Be there for two things, the mesmerizing beauty and food.
And dont forget to ping me.
Lahat ng bus at train rides mo booked in advance?
@ Julie: Yeah, I’d wanted to go to Jodhpur and Udaipur, too, but I didn’t have the time anymore. 🙁 Hopefully next time!
I´ve heard a lot about the Blue City, Jodhpur. Apparently, many travelers like it even more than Jaipur, because it´s somewhat more organized and peaceful and there´s this beautiful fort overlooking the city and, naturally, the houses painted blue that gave name to it. I´ve seen the pictures and — oh my gosh!..I hope to check this off of my bucket list one day.
@ Christine: You would love my hosts! They recently had a baby so not sure if they’re hosting anytime soon. They’re quite active in CS.
Kolkata is a city I still want to visit. I keep thinking it’ll be the grittiest and grimiest of all India. lol. Not sure why I think that~ must have to do with the agedness of the city. If I ever get there I’m going to hit you up for your couchsurfing hosts. They sound like they were amazing and made a wonderful stay for you!
@ Larissa: Yes, it is!
@ Melo: I’m sure you will be on that fam tour soon 😀
I want to go to India soon:) kakainggit:(
An assault on all five senses, Wow!
@ Bino: 8 days is def not enough! I’m going to Kathmandu soon, early next year 🙂
@ Calogero Mira: Agree, Indian food is delicious.
@ Marisol: It will 🙂 Not too sure when I’m going back though.
Hi Aleah, if you ask for adventure, India is it! You covered a lot of ground and mix experiences in 3 weeks. It’s good that despite your negative experiences you let the positive ones prevail. I hope your next visit will be a much better experience,
I like India in these photos. And I am hungry.
thats a whole lot of ground covered in 3 weeks! I did india in 8 days only hahaha.
where do you intend to go next time?
@ Vhincent: Yeah, it’s a country that comes highly recommended for people who love traveling and learning about other cultures. It’s not the same if you just see Indians in other countries. 😀
@ Mary: India has a very negative rep now for female travelers, but it still is worth it to go. The fact that it happened to me and others doesn’t mean it will happen to all, right? 🙂 Thanks for the concern!
I’m glad you had a wonderful trip in India. I admit I was a bit worried about you backpacking and couchsurfing after all the news of harassment. I remember a post you did on being treated there as woman with the groping. Despite all that, what an adventure and so glad you made your dream come true. India hasn’t been portrayed well in the media and this is just inspiring.
Its one great adventure and fun! Though India is not in our list to travel to, I guess this is still a place worth visiting. Anyway we still manage to experience India’s culture since Malaysia’s 3rd race are Indians.
@ DJ: Thanks! Do go there!
@ Traveling Morion: Someday you’ll be able to pose in front of the Taj Mahal 😉
Wish I have the courage, time and travel fund now to explore one of the most interesting and diverse countries 🙂 Wahhhh pangarap ko rin mag posing dyan sa harap ng Taj Mahal 🙂
I have yet to make my way to India. Bookmarked!
@ Franca: Agree about the food!
@ Mary: I guess it’s time to make new memories? 😉
I loved India the first time I went as a senior in college and I’ve been trying to find a way to go back ever since. Thanks for bringing back great memories!
I haven’t been to India yet and I’d love to, it looks so beautiful, so different and the food so delicious.
@ Micki: India’s beautiful. It would be too bad if its reputation will keep you away. Just be careful, be aware of the things around you always, and you’ll be fine. 🙂
Oh, that veggie dish at the start of the post looks so good! I have to say, though, as @Dana said earlier, that I’m much less inclined to want to visit India after hearing so many stories of sexual assault from other women who’ve visited. It’s such a sad thing, as I’ve also hear such wonderful things about the country as well.
@ Dana: Jaipur *is* amazing. Don’t let other women’s experiences let you from visiting India!
@ Elle: Thanks for dropping by 🙂
Wow! that looks amazing. India isn’t on my bucket list… but you’re really sold the place. Great pics too – thanks for sharing.
Elle x
It seems like more and more women are coming forward with incidents of sexual assault in India. It’s kind of scary. India used to be super high on my list of places to visit, but lately, it’s been losing its rank. But I’m glad that you were able to enjoy your time there. And Jaipur looks amazing!
@ Jessie: Yeah, it is!
@ Val: India’s beautiful 🙂
I still haven’t been to India. This makes me want to go!!
Epic journey, indeed! WOW!
@ Disha: It’s tough to choose one. I loved Jaipur, but I also liked Kolkata because of my hosts and Delhi because of my friends there. 😀
@ Cat: That’s so true. India can be overwhelming at first.
I have to admit that India isn’t a high place on my travel musts lists, but it seems that most travelers have a similar experience: after the initial shock, they really enjoy themselves. And I do love Indian food, so that could always entice me…
Hi Aleah,
It looks a great experience of you with India, Aleah, you had been in India & you were in great cities of India like Kolkata, Varanasi, Agra, Jaipur As well as New Delhi. Aleah, you had been in 5 top & greatest cities of India so which one was best & unforgettable for you ?
@ Mike: Thanks for visiting! I was sad to have only 3 weeks to visit then, but I think it is better for me to visit weeks at a time instead of months. Because I didn’t have enough of it, I’m raring to go back 🙂
@ Avnish: Thanks, I will share my link there when your site is up 🙂
classic one aleah
we r working on a travelling venture called road trippin’. u can also share ur blog there. in few day we ll be ready with our website n ll luv to feature ur blog der.
regards,
avnish
Good for you to get out there and explore on your own, Aleah! I’ve found more and more women are doing this and I admire it. What a fantastic journey this was. My close buddy at work is from India. Wow, nice that you got a window seat on the train I’m just glad you didn’t get stampeded over! I doubt I would have any desire to see the burning of the bodies – just a very unpleasant life experience many years ago. I don’t practice Buddhism but it is by far the religion I admire the most. I’m very spiritual and have a deep belief in my high power. I even read Life and Teachings of the Masters of the Far East. It was amazing. This was a fantastic post and thank you for sharing! 🙂
@ Photo Cache: I saw the dirt and grime in Jaipur but it didn’t matter. I loved how it welcome me and made me feel safe after Varanasi. Re Couchsurfing, it’s the host’s responsibility to provide a place to stay, but other than that, everything else is a bonus. 🙂
In the Philippines, we usually take guests around, introduce them to friends, etc. In Europe, some of my hosts just gave me the key to the house and that was it. You never really know the kind of hosts you will get.
@ Lillie: Yes, it was. 🙂
An epic journey!
It is exhilirating to explore other countries, imbibe local culture and take in all the sounds and sights and smells of something foreign to us. I’m sure that you wouldn’t find the experience more rewarding had you traveled with people. Just as I wouldn’t have enjoyed India had I traveled alone.
I loved Jaipur as well, although I must have romanticized it so much that seeing it dirty and grimy and bustling was a bit of a letdown; but of course seeing the main sights restored my fascination with this romantic city.
I have a question about couchsurfing…. is it the hosts’ duty/job to show the guests around town?