The moment I stepped off the mini-bus in the train station in Hidroelectrica (hydroelectric plant), in the town of Santa Teresa, Peru, I was besieged by doubts. Am I really going to hike solo to Machu Picchu?
Sure, I’ve been told that it’s safe and I won’t get lost. Just follow the train track, they said, and it will lead you to Aguas Calientes, the small town where Machu Picchu is located.
Still, I couldn’t help but get anxious at the thought that I would be hiking solo for hours. What if I tripped and broke my ankle? What if I got lost? What if I were still walking at sunset, how would I find my way?
Rainy Machu Picchu is still lovely.
There were so many what-ifs, but I need not have worried. The most “exciting” thing that happened occurred at the beginning of my trek, when the trail suddenly ended.
When I was still planning for my trip to Peru, I thought I would have to shell out around $300-$400 just to go to Machu Picchu. I read a fellow blogger’s trek via the Inca Trail even cost $600.
I knew it would be worth it, but it was out of my budget, so I searched for the cheapest ways to get there. A friend/fellow blogger wrote a DIY trip for less than $70. I was ecstatic! That is, until I read that they walked 8 hours to get there. I like hiking, yes, but walking solo for 8 hours? Umm…nope.
The train that goes to Aguas Calientes.
Near the start of the trek in Hidroelektrika.
Then when I was in Cusco, I met fellow travelers who told me I didn’t have to walk 8 hours from Ollantaytambo. I could walk from the town of Santa Teresa, following the train tracks starting in Hydroelectrika, to Aguas Calientes. It would only be around 2-3 hours, one way.
From one of the travel agencies in Plaza de Armas in Cusco, I bought a return ticket for a mini-van to Hidroelektrika (no need to go to Santa Teresa) for US$19. They picked me up at 7am and we arrived in Hidroelektrika at 2pm.
(Going back to Hidroelektrika, I started walking from Aguas Calientes at 10am and arrived at noon. I then waited for a mini-van driver to call my name for the trip back to Cusco.)
From the dead end, I saw a trail on the right leading up to the mountain and I took it. I got lost for a while, felt my anxiety increasing, I backtracked, and then I met other hikers also looking for the trail.
Together, we finally found it, and from then on, it was just a straightforward hike to Machu Picchu pueblo, formerly known as Aguas Calientes.
Most of the time, I was alone on the trail…
..as other solo hikers also walked at their own pace.
I thought that given the presence of other hikers, I would never be alone on the trail. Nope! A lot of times, there was just me and the train track ahead and behind me. I would meet others, sure, but since I walked at my own pace and they did the same, I never found people to walk the whole way with.
Hiking on the tracks was said to be against regulations, but you wouldn’t know it by the number of people you meet along the way. There were both foreigners and locals alike.
You wouldn’t get bored walking with this view…
…and this.
The train crosses the river on this bridge.
The hike is quite easy; at my slow pace, it took 2.5 hours for me to get to Aguas Calientes (and 2 hours to get back), with several stops along the way to take pictures of the river, the bridge, and other various interesting spots along the way.
If you get thirsty or hungry during the trek, there are a couple of places along the track where they sell water, soda, and snacks. There are restaurants, too, if you want to have a full meal.
Store and restaurant by the train track.
Again, to cut costs, I brought two sandwiches, a bottle of water, and a bottle of Gatorade. I didn’t want to stop as I wanted to get to Aguas Calientes before dark.
I arrived before 5pm in Aguas Calientes, 2.5 hours after I started my trek in Hidroelektrika. I immediately looked for my hotel, and quite pleased when I got there.
For only $10 per night, I got a private room with free WiFi, a double bed, and my own toilet. No breakfast, of course, but for the price, it was quite a bargain! A travel agency in Cusco booked it for me.
Welcome to Machu Picchu town!
The center of small Aguas Calientes. To the right is the market.
My $10 private room in Aguas Calientes.
Food, however, is a bit pricey in Aguas Calientes. That is, if you eat at the restaurants. A meal can set you back $10 or more.
Here’s what I did: I went to the market (second floor). For around $2 (~7 soles), you get a serving of rice, french fries, and meat (I loved the chicken milanesa) plus free water or sweet tea. More than 90% of the people who eat there are locals, since tourists usually prefer the nice ambiance of restaurants (who needs ambiance anyway?).
If you want to cut costs further, you can hike up the mountain to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes, a steep trek that will take you 1.5 hours or so. I fully intended to do so; it’s exercise plus it will also save me money.
However, the rainy season had already started when I was there (late November 2015), and when I woke up at 7am the next day and found it raining, I decided to sleep in until 9am and took the shuttle. It was pricey at $24 return, but it saved me a long, wet hike.
On month 3 of my travels, I went to Machu Picchu in Peru.
Should you go at 5am to Machu Picchu, as some writers recommend?
Nope. The gates open at 6am anyway, and there are loads of people there at that time, all thinking they want to be among the first at the top.
I was there at around 10am, and sure, there were a lot of people, but Machu Picchu is big enough for everyone. Look at my pic above. It isn’t so crowded, is it? (I’ll write another blog post about Machu Picchu later on.)
I can definitely recommend my itinerary for budget travelers. There’s no need to burn yourself out from walking so much (unless you really need to or want to, of course).
Here’s a breakdown of my expenses during my visit to Machu Picchu from Cusco:
Yay to my Philippine bag in Machu Picchu! (Click the pic for more photos via Facebook.)
So, for 3 days and 2 nights, I only spent 368 soles or $109. It’s not as expensive as they make it out to be, is it? Do it yourself, and hike solo to Machu Picchu. You won’t only save money, you will also learn something about yourself. 😀
Have you been to Machu Picchu? Do you want to go?
46 Comments. Leave new
Wow. Now I can do it alone. It looks great! Good to know. Thank you very much!
I really liked reading about your experiences. I am preparing my trip to Machu Picchu for the next year and I would like to do it just like you. thanks for the post!
Hi i found your blog while looking for the details how I get to Machu Picchu and I am very happy to found you!Super cool travel you did by yourself and i am very impressed!
Just one question if you still remember,The way back from Machu Picchu to Cosco,do you remember if you could come back to Cusco on the same day as you visited Machu Picchu?I see you have stayed 2 nights in Aguas Calientes,but we are hoping to do it just 1 night and coming back to Cusco on the same day.We are off to Peru next week !Looking forward to your reply!
I would like to go to Machu Picchu and do this solo hiking, it sounds fun to me, but first I have to go to the Philippines. Hopefully next year I go to Machu Picchu.
what a nice post, is really admirable that you did the Machu Picchu Tour by yourself. Is also helpful for those travelers who wants to visit Machupicchu and no spend a lot of money. There is another way to do the famous Inca Trail , you can do it in just one day, and you can save money too.
Very detailed and helpful review of your trip to Peru! Enjoyed reading without getting bored in a bit. Simple, straight and full of useful info. Great job guys! Carry on travelling and sharing! ?
My husband and I went to Peru for our honeymoon in 1982. Other than the hotel up at the site and a small guesthouse in Aguas Calientes, there were no other overnight accomodations to stay at Machu Picchu, so the place really cleared out when the tourist train left to return to Cuzco. We were able to take a photo of from the Sun Gate with no people in it before sunset. We climbed Huayna Picchu. I was terrified for a good part of the climb. The day before our climb, a guide warned us to be careful when reaching up to grab hold of a rock overhang because there could be a viper sunning on it. That was underscored when we came upon a dead viper by the side of the trail leaving Machu Picchu. There is an old photo of me at the top, clinging anxiously to a rock near the edge. That climb is right near the top when I think back over my reverse bucket list (i.e. wonderful things I’ve already done and seen.) ?
This photo is amazing! Well from the photograph it pretty clean that you are very good photographer. Thanks for sharing this lovely travel experience with us
I went to Peru in spring of 2012 and the crown jewel of any Peruvian getaway is Machu Picchu. We also were able to snap a few pics with limited people since we waited out a rain storm. But we were treated to the clouds climbing up Machu Picchu which was beautiful! ?
This place is very beautiful and such a great piece of art. Machu picchu can amaze every traveler. This place is look like a puzzle game where one can enjoy hide and seek game like I did .:)
I am hiking up to Machu Picchu next month and I can’t wait. I am spending a few days in Cusco before. Any tips or ideas for other fun things to do around there?
Hey girl! Planning a last minute trip and I’m curious, do you need tickets if you hike to Machu Picchu this way? Also, is there a way to get back to Cuzco in the same day? Thanks! 🙂
The most popular trek to Machu Picchu is the Classic Inca Trail, which follows original trails that the Inca’s would have taken from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu. Along the way trekkers are treated to a wide variety of impressive Inca sites and stunning scenery.
Wow, what a feat! Thanks for including your budget, too 🙂
Super helpful post with some very beautiful pictures. I’ve been planning this trip for sometime now. I hope to travel there sometime soon.
What airline and how much was the plane ticket? Di ba may connecting flight? Kumuha ka ba ng visa para dito?
Do the mini-vans run during the weekends? And where’d you buy the tickets?
Ca.n i have a detailed itinerary from manila and what airlines. At 54 im a solo traveler but i cant walk for several hours like that, im a little bit of high blood .but my itchy feet cant stop me..
do you need a travel visa when you go there?
I did this trip last year too! I was amazed at how cheap you can do everything yourself and the insane inflation the tour companies do when you book ahead. So glad you enjoyed your trip!
THANK YOU for your post! You made it very straightforward. My husband and I are going to travel there next year and it is sometimes hard to get clear information. This was great. You’re amazing!
I am planning to do this on Feb!!! Because i can only do it on feb but its rainy season. Shall i still go? 🙁 please enlighten me! I would also like to go to bolivia
Ohhhh I felt like crying upon reading this article!HAHAHA Machu Picchu is the cherry on top of my dream destinations! Im like day dreaming right now! Imagining its me who’s hiking solo to reach the majestic Machu Picchu! HAHAHAHA
Do you have a separate article about how you travelled from MNL to Machu Picchu?
Thank you Aleah! You are an inspiration! <3
Salkantay trek is the alternative to the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was recently named among the 25 best Treks in the World, by National Geographic Adventure Travel Magazine.
Very nice, step by step, blog.
We are right now in Cusco and you / me found each other on Facebook, in the Nomadic Group. Thanks for sharing your experience with other people. It helps !
It is funny, because we have almost the same Name 😉
My wife calls Lea and me Alexandros, so we call our one-year Honeymoon alealife
Take care and keep blogging.
Peace and Out
Alexandros and Lea
I’ll be traveling by myself to Lima, Cusco and Icquitos for 5 weeks this summer! I’m so glad to know that there are plenty of inexpensive places to stay, eat and that it’s safe for females to hike alone.
You will see a lot of hikers to Aguas Calientes from Hidroelektrika. No need to be afraid. 🙂
I think it’s phenomenal that you did this! I don’t think I’d be brave enough to do it solo. I didn’t even know this route is an option. I’ll have to keep this in mind for when we go to Peru.
Hi Dana! You and your BF would love the hike 🙂
It looks great! I wasn’t aware you can do it solo, that’s good to know 🙂 Thanks!
You’re welcome. 🙂
Wow very inspiring travels bit scary for solo traveler but trust your instinct .
It wasn’t scary at all, but yeah, solo travelers have to trust their (our) instincts. 😀
I disagree about not taking the first bus up to Machu Picchu. I took the first but & it was amazing!! We just ran when we got off the bus and we were rewarded with unreal views of people-less Machu Picchu. It was amazing!! We felt like indian jones for the first half an hour well we walked around with no other people in sight. Take the first bus and sprint to the top & you will be rewarded with the most spectacular views. Also book Waynu Picchu (is that how you spell it???) Lots of people do it but it’s worth the view. One of my highlights! So cool that you hiked there. Great info for other backpackers, thanks for sharing!
Too bad I went when it was already the start of the rainy season. So even if I were the first one there, there would have been no view, no spectacular sunrise 🙁 Huayna Picchu is nice, too, but didn’t go up there. Same reason: rain. haha
Any thoughts on hiking the Inca Trail? Have you heard if worth doing?
Hi Dana. If you have the cash, it definitely is worth doing!
I hope to make it there when it is still pretty much intact! But I want to do it with my husband so have to wait until my kids get older…
The Peruvian government has limited the number of people per day in Machu Picchu, so hopefully, it will still be there when your kids are older. 🙂
Great post Aleah with really nice photos and some very useful practical information.
I will link to this post in a couple of travel forums.
Thanks, Claus!
Yay! Thanks for this post Aleah. I have just booked our tickets to travel to Brazil, Bolivia and Peru this June and Machu Pichhu is definitely on top but it is overwhelming to plan the trip because of fear of the unknown.there are very few pinoys who had been there and wrote about their trips so you made it real for me and I know
Have fun, Mhe-Anne! I’ll write about my trips to those three countries soon. Hope you’ll read them!
I would like to go to Machu Picchu and do this solo hiking, it sounds fun to me, but first I have to go to the Philippines. Hopefully next year I go to Machu Picchu.
Philippines is good! Save my Peru posts for when you go there. 😀
I plan to DIY too, but maybe nothing of that hiking thing. We are trying (not even in the planning stage) to get to SA this Fall, and maybe to Machu Picchu. We’ll see. In God’s time.
It’s really easy to get there via trains from Cusco. $75 one way. Hope you’ll get there soon!