When people think of Belgium, they will invariably think of Brussels, Antwerp, or Bruges. This small country has other things to offer, though, including its numerous small towns that are very charming in their own right. One of them is the city of Herentals, just one hour from the capital.
I spent most of my first days in Europe inside this house.
Sweltering now in the heat and humidity of the Philippines, I couldn’t forget the first time I arrived in Belgium last February. I didn’t immediately stay with my friend K in Olen (long story); I found super nice Couchsurfing hosts Gerd and Pol in Herentals who gave me my first home in Europe.
I arrived on a weekday so they couldn’t take me around, but they did give a lot of recommendations on where I can go. One of them was the Tourist Tower as it had the best views; unfortunately, at that time, it was still closed. Besides, at -10 degrees Celsius, I had no plans of climbing up to expose myself more to the elements!
In fact, I didn’t feel like going around at all. I remember thinking at that time: is this how I’m going to spend my backpacking trip in Europe, huddled in front of the proverbial fireplace and looking out at the snow-covered and white-colored world outside?
It wasn’t until spring, when I went back to Belgium, that I got to go around Herentals, and of course, I made sure to go to the Tourist Tower (Toeristentoren).
The path to the Tourist Tower.
Made of imported wood, this 24-meter tower is located in the midst of a pine forest one kilometer from the town center. My local friend Babs took me there, and after parking the car, we started walking. She pointed out the trails that runners and bikers use.
At that time, I could only feel regret that I wouldn’t be there in summer, as I would really love running under those trees!
You won’t get lost as there are directions going there.
Along the way, we saw several structures being used for Stations of the Cross during Easter, as well as a small and old church that looked unused. It was too bad; I think I would love to hear Mass in the middle of a forest.
An old (and unused?) church in the middle of the forest.
This is one of the structures used for Stations of the Cross.
After just a few minutes of walking, we reached the base of the tourist tower where a cafe was operating. Even at an early hour, there were already a few people drinking beer; of course in Belgium, people drink beer the whole day–except for breakfast; even K was aghast to see a German guy drink beer at 10am when he was in the Philippines.
The cafe at the base of the Tourist Tower.
See how small the people are down below?
The best view, of course, is when you reach the top. The 100+ steps is totally worth it when you enjoy a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. A small speck could be seen at a distance; Babs identified it as located in Olen, a small town adjacent to Herentals.
They say that on a really clear day you can also see Antwerp and even the Atomium in Brussels. Unfortunately, we didn’t see them.
The view from the Tourist Tower.
There was also some sort of an orientation guide on the top floor, with the names of cities in Belgium and some corresponding numbers. Babs and I couldn’t identify what the numbers meant; it couldn’t have referred to distance, as Herentals was shown to have the number 2458 and Olen, which is very near, 5823. (If you know what’s it for, please say so in the comments!)
The orientation guide at the top, signifying…what?
Up in the tower, the silence was almost deafening. You couldn’t even hear the wind. I think if there’s a moment I want to recapture in Belgium, it would be the one here, when everything seemed so small and inconsequential, and nothing and no one else mattered but the beauty in front of us.
Here’s a video of what you can see in Herentals (video by demike90 in YouTube). It’s in Dutch, but just looking at the pictures alone, you’ll see how beautiful the town is. Will write a post on it later!
For more information about Herentals, check out the city’s official site, Herentals.be. It’s in Dutch, but if you’re using Chrome, Google can automatically translate the pages for you.
33 Comments. Leave new
@ Gerd and Pol: Thanks so much for reading and commenting, and of course for allowing me to post a pic of your lovely house. At the time I was there, there was nothing so welcoming than your warm home. It was a huge comfort for me. I can’t thank you enough for accommodating me, given my difficulty at that time. Hope someday I can go back and go around with you!
When Aleah left the Philippines, the local temperature was +29°C, and when she arrived at our place (beginning of February) it was -15°C, so it was a bit of a temperature shock 😉 Luckely she bought some boots and warm gloves on her first day here, and didn’t have to wear her beach slippers from the Philippines. She was happy with a warm night dress of mine as well 🙂
Despite the cold weather, we are happy to read that you enjoyed your staying here, and more… that it felt like a cosy and warm home.
Thanks again for the Philippine rum you brought 🙂 and for keeping Herentals spotted on the world map!
You know where to find us when one day you’ll come back 😉
Keep up the good spirit, and keep on updating your blog…
btw : my sons noticed that the link to your article has been mentioned on the Facebook page of our hometown : http://www.facebook.com/stadherentals
love from us both
Gerdje and Pol
@ Gelo: I would enjoy the Belgian winter, too, if I had the proper clothing! Unfortunately, the winter clothes I brought from the Philippines were not enough :((
@ Marisol: It’s a really small town, but very nice. I would happily go back there any season except winter haha
Hi Aleah, I have not heard of Herentals. It looks like a charming town. The view from the tower is spectacular – making the climb and the hike to it really worth it. I’m glad you had a second chance to climb it.
i can almost smell the freshness of those trees by mere looking at your photo taken on top of the tower! and i can only wish i’m enjoying that belgian weather too (yes, i think i can endure the chilling but with layering of course para pormado, hahaha!)
@ Johanna: I prefer it too, but I would actually love to have to choice of going to Europe when I want to, without being shackled by visa issues!
@ Debbie: Height does provide a different perspective doesn’t it?
I love getting high up above everything else! The views are always rewarding and this is no exception. I’ve not made it to Belgium yet but I would love to do so someday soon.
What a wonderful tower to climb even though it was chilly! Having lived in the Philippines for a few very happy years, I can understand the shock the cold climate of Belgium must have had on your system! I love the Philippine’s tropical climate, and I think I prefer it to sub-zero European winters 🙂
@ Cathy: That must have been a nice experience 🙂 I’ve always heard Mass in traditional places, no forest locations yet.
@ Lisa: Your kids will love Belgium! Especially their chocolates and Manneken Pis 😀
I love climbing towers like this – it’s such a great perspective looking across a city or the countryside – even if you don’t know what you are looking at! I haven’t been to Belgium yet but will definitely keep this in mind for a future trip.
I’ve only visited Bruges, but am looking forward to spending some time exploring other towns like Herentals. Your comment about hearing Mass in a forest reminded me of going to Mass outside in the forest near Lake Tahoe when I was young. Very nice.
@ Jackie: I can so relate haha It’s not a problem if you’re traveling a long period, but if you’re there only for a short time, it’s hard not to feel bitter when the weather doesn’t cooperate haha
@ Leigh: Winter can be beautiful. Loved the sight of the snow on the rooftops. But then again, only when I have more time to come visit the place later!
You’ve certainly given me a different view of what Belgium looks like and very worthwhile climbing the tower. I’m looking out of my window today at a snowstorm and thinking I won’t be going very far either – just shoveling.
A most interesting post Aleah. Your comment about staying inside and looking out at the weather hit home after our recent stay in Venice where one day I paced from window to window staring out at the wind and rain thinking, “This is all I will see of Venice?” Glad you made it back in the spring.
@ Mario: Thanks. So sad I don’t know how to speak Dutch! I also put in a video of the Herentals town. Miss being there, drinking coffee and just watching the people go by. 🙂
What hans said , :p
here’s a link to see a recent documentary
its in dutch so sorry about that
@ Hans: Thanks for chiming in! Now that makes sense. You’re running a nice site about Herentals, will edit my post to link to yours!
The numbers on the orientation guide on the top floor of the tower indicate the distance IN METERS to the tower of the main church in the corresponding town or village. Thus the distance to the Saint-Waldetrudis-church in Herentals is 2458 meters.
@ Mario: Thanks SO MUCH! Babs and I did consider it was the distance, but we weren’t convinced, as we thought of *kilometers* not meters. However, why is Herentals 2.458km? Does it refer to the center of the town?
hi Aleah
Im from Herentals and i just wanted to tell u that the numbers are refering to the distance , its the distance in meters , so Herentals from that point is 2458 meters , and Olen 5823 meters , grtz from herentals
@ Koen: Thanks. Too bad I’ve only seen two seasons in Belgium. Hopefully someday I’ll get to be there during the summer and autumn as well. I’m sure it’s also as beautiful as it was in spring.
@ Muzachan: I do that too, when it’s not too cold 🙂
Every time I visit a city I first search for tall observatories… Great article 🙂
Nobody can write about the tourist tower and the environment like you Aleah…soon winter and the coldness will arrive again but for the time being autumn has definitely also it’s charms with the multi-coloured and falling leaves…
@ Jenny: Yeah, the view would have been different in winter. But at that time nothing could make me trek to the woods and climb up the tower in that cold haha
@ Mary: I love visiting small towns like this and writing about them. Belgium has so many of these wonderful small cities!
I love how that tower looks in the middle of the forest. I’ve never heard of this Belgian town or this tower but it looks so inviting. I would love to attend mass amongst the trees too during warm weather. I bet the forest is a glorious sight during Fall season with the multi-colored leaves. Now, those numbers have made me curious what they could be.
A very clever move to wait until Spring to climb the tower though a blanket a white covering the trees woud have been beautiful too.
@ Sugam Singhal: Thank you for checking in with my blog every now and then. I would *definitely* contact you about my northern India trip. Thanks so much for offering to take me around, I would really welcome that!
@ Fifi: Alas, the snow was not enough for skiing. It was just cold haha
it looks like a fun trip. i am sure belgium looks nice in winter with snow. probably a good place for snow skiing and snowboarding, and even ice skating. but i agree that it would be more comfortable to travel in summer or spring because of the warm weather and easier navigation to different destinations.
Hi Aleah.
I started following your blogs every time you posted some time ago. I must say, I absolutely love your writing, your photographs and ofcorse your travels too!
I noticed in your upcoming trips you have Northern India planned for March-April 2013. I had a huge smile on my face! 🙂
I will be in Jammu (Jammu and Kashmir) in March and maybe in Delhi in April. If I can be of any help, let me know! I would love to take you around.
Yay! 😀
@ Budget Jan: That’s the thing. I didn’t have appropriate clothes. The winter clothing I brought with me were not enough 🙁
@ Salika Jay: If it wasn’t very cold, I would have loved a beer too 🙂
The view from top of the tower is amazing. My hubby wouldn’t mind having a beer after walking up to the tower (and after climbing down too) 🙂
Hi Aleah, I definitely would not have climbed that tower in -10 degrees either. It is so hard to drag yourself out of warmth to face that kind of cold. I hope you had plenty of warm clothes. Jan