Why do you travel?
There are a thousand and one reasons: we travel to meet people, experience new cultures, appreciate a different cuisine. We travel for architecture, art, and the chance to expand our horizons.
We travel because we want to, we need to, and because we can.
But there’s one reason to travel that really resonated with me. In one of Raymond Feist’s book, a character gives his reason for leaving the comfortable life he had, running a bar with the love and companionship of a woman: “Sunsets above other oceans, and mighty sights and great wonders to behold.”
As I sat on the rock watching the sun set in Wadi Rum, it was Feist’s words that reverberated in my mind. Yes, I would travel just to watch the sunset in other oceans. I’ve seen it in Wadi Rum, and it was indeed a wonder to behold.
Watching the sunset in Wadi Rum.
When I heard that Wadi Rum was included in the itinerary of the #UnravelingJordan History and Culture Tour of the Jordan Tourism Board, I was very excited. I had never been to a “real” desert before. I’ve seen sand dunes, yes (Read: Tianmo Desert, China) but none could compare to the vastness and beauty of Wadi Rum.
Can a desert devoid of lush vegetation be called beautiful? You bet it does. Wadi Rum’s rust-colored sand and huge sandstone and granite mountains (jebel in Arabic) give it an otherworldly quality. Its other name, The Valley of the Moon is a perfect fit. No wonder T.E. Lawrence called it “vast, echoing and God-like.” (Watch the video below!)
Wadi Rum is a protected area by the government of Jordan. You can go there by bus, rental car, or taxi; the most convenient, of course, is by taxi. It’s around 4-5 hours from Amman, 2 hours from Petra, and an hour from Aqaba. All tourists must pass by the Visitors Center first to pay the entrance fee of JOD 5 per person.
The weather in Wadi Rum can go to extremes, so wear layers. Bring a light jacket, sunscreen, and lots of water. Bring a cap, too, or a keffiyeh (the checkered red and white scarf); I brought an umbrella, but I couldn’t use it in the pick-up.
Photo by Damiano Moretti.
It’s best to spend a night in Wadi Rum. The night sky is so clear, and sleeping under the stars can be a magical experience. If you’re a solo female traveler, use common sense. The Bedouin men can be very charming, but don’t decide to marry anyone there after just a few days!
The Bedouins, the inhabitants of Wadi Rum for thousands of years, used to be nomadic, going from place to place to find food for their animals and themselves.
Nowadays, they have settled somewhat, setting up their tents in the shadows of rocky mountains. They rent out their camels, organize tours, or set up camps for tourists.
Our group had lunch at Captain’s Desert Camp, a locally-run encampment with a big, open-air dining area and several smaller tents for sleeping. Those were not regular tents, though, which have you sleep on the ground.
Captain’s Desert Camp.
The colorful, open-air dining area.
Each one has a bed, a mosquito netting, and even electricity! It’s not fancy but I prefer it 100% than having a modern hotel in the middle of the desert. The camp blends well in Wadi Rum, and it is as it should be.
After our very delicious buffet-type lunch (all sorts of salads and a rice/chicken dish), off we went on our 4×4 tour.
Wadi Rum can be explored in several ways: by 4×4, a camel, on foot, or through its adventure activities like rock climbing and hot air balloon riding (take a look at what you can do there, as well as the rates: Wadi Rum | Visit Jordan).
The vastness of Wadi Rum is humbling.
For the first part of our tour, we went on a 4×4, an adrenaline pumping drive that had us shrieking and holding on for dear life. Despite our vehicle’s speed (which we all enjoyed), the beauty of Wadi Rum didn’t escape me. We drove through sand dunes and between huge mountains, our keffiyeh flying in the wind.
We stopped at Lawrence’s Spring, a camp where the face of T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia), a British officer who helped the Bedouins against the Ottoman attacks in the First World War, was carved by a local artist onto a rock.
The Bedouins inside the camp offered us tea, and I gratefully accepted. Unlike the chai I had tasted in Amman, the teas in Wadi Rum were sweetened just the way I liked it. They had two cats, too, and I wasted no time in petting them. Arabian cats are fluffy, friendly (read: they tolerated my caresses), and so soft.
Hospitable Bedouins always offer tea.
A pretty Arabian cat.
Pretty soon, though, we left again, only to stop at another rocky hill where we could see some drawings (petroglyphs) left by the ancient Nabataeans. These works of art, usually depicting scenes of daily life, were scratched by the desert people onto the rock surface. There are thousands of them all over Wadi Rum.
There were quite a few tourists there, as well as a herd of camels resting. None were ours, however, so after a few minutes, we left again.
Detail of the Nabataean petroglyphs.
Posing by the centuries-old Nabataean art.
I climbed up a sand dune (see how small they are below?).
After a few more minutes of flying driving through the desert, we finally found our camels.
Mine, called Rams, was the smallest and probably the youngest. I was trying to get on his back when he decided I was too slow and stood up, leaving me hanging, half on and half off his back. Our guide and a Bedouin man had to push me up to the saddle. I was just too glad none of our photographers captured that moment. So mortifying!
My camel loves me.
Onwards in Wadi Rum on camels.
After I got over the scare of landing on my butt in the desert, I began to enjoy the camel ride. It’s not too uncomfortable, especially if you hook your leg on the camel’s neck. With one hand holding on, I even found the time to take a few pictures.
Nope, I didn’t notice his smell!
When we all got off to wait for sunset, Rams was contrite enough to let me pose with him for a few selfies. He didn’t try to throw me off his back again!
The best moment of the day for me was sitting on a rock and waiting for sunset in Wadi Rum. There was just no describing the feeling of looking over the vista in front of me.
Yes, life in the desert is hard, even now with more opportunities to earn. The heat can be unbearable, and it can be very cold at night. How did the desert people survive here?
I felt so blessed to have seen the sunset in Wadi Rum!
Yet, as the sun set, I could clearly see why the Bedouins chose to stay. Shrouded in the soft light of the setting sun, the red sand dunes and the huge mountains made us all feel tiny. It felt very humbling to be amidst such beauty.
When my friends who were sitting on the rock with me fell silent too, it made the moment all the more poignant. I could hear nothing but the wind, and everywhere I looked, there was just the magnificence of the desert. Wadi Rum is unbelievably breathtaking. I felt so lucky to stand witness to its glory.
As T.E. Lawrence said, “No man can live this life and emerge unchanged. He will carry…the imprint of the desert…and he will have within him the yearning to return…. For this cruel land can cast a spell which no temperate clime can match.”
Such apt words for Wadi Rum!
Have you ever felt this way during your travels? Where? Do share in the comments below!
My thanks to the Jordan Tourism Board for the opportunity to experience Jordan. All opinions are my own. Thanks too to Damiano Moretti for the photo of me with an umbrella.
38 Comments. Leave new
Wait, which Feist book is that? I think I’ve read most of them. Can’t say I remember a lot of the details though, LOL.
Bit scary how easily those petroglyphs could be vandalized.
Just how many marriage proposals did you receive then, Aleah? Looks like a magical place to visit. Hope to get there one day.
Aww, that’s a secret, Matthew. 😛 Definitely make it a point to go to Jordan. You won’t forget the experience!
I’ve always wanted to go to Wadi Rum, but haven’t made the trek yet. Really appreciate you laying it all down – what to expect, how to get there, etc… It seems like the perfect day trip.
Spend more than a day when you’re there, Jodi. The desert sky is marvelous at night!
I loved following you on this trip… beautiful photos and the fun energy of the local people really shines through them. Great work Aleah!
Thank you, Penny. I can’t believe my trip to Jordan was over. It went by so quickly!
So beautiful and amazing! I’ve been longing to go here…
You would really enjoy it! Hope you get to visit Jordan someday. It’s very much worth it!
Awesome photos of Wadi Rum! I have to agree, the best way to experience landscapes like this are to just sit back and gaze out at the endless landscape! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for dropping by, Ben. My pictures don’t do justice to the beauty of Wadi Rum, but thanks anyway for appreciating them. 😀
The closest we’ve got to a desert on Gran Canaria are the dunes at Maspalomas. Which include grains of sand blown over from the Sahara. But we’d love to follow in your footsteps in Jordan.
You would love Wadi Rum, I’m sure. The desert has its charms, and Wadi Rum has plenty of it.
What an incredible experience! I’ve always dreamed of sleeping under the stars in the desert. And your camel is really cute. Gorgeous landscapes!
Wadi Rum is really gorgeous, Dana! Do visit Jordan someday!
Ahaha you are so cute, aleah. I cant help but laugh while reading the part when you were being pushed on your butt to your camel..lol.. I love your photos. The only sand dune experience I had was in Mui ne Vt and I would definitely checkout that dessert near Beijing. My China trip is almost near na haha.. Btw, you are a great story teller! Keep writing!
That was indeed a scary/exciting moment. The camel is so high up, can you imagine me dangling? Naughty, naughty Rams! Do check out Tianmo near Beijing. It’s not a big sand dune but it looks pretty cool.
Aleah – this is incredible, love the way you capture Wadi Rum. Another sunset in Wadi Rum is due indeed!
Thanks, Jess. I will always remember our time there.
OOOH. I so need to go. What an extraordinary place – and your photos? They bring it home to us.
Wadi Rum is really extraordinary, Jessie. Do find time to visit Jordan!
It looks magical. 🙂 I can see why you wrote about it this way.
Claire, my words and photos do not do justice to it!
Incredible experience!!
Yes, it was. Thanks!
Mesmerizing and fascinating experience indeed… Can not wait for the next post !!!
Did you try… camel’s milk? hehe…
Thanks, Albert. No, we didn’t try camel’s milk. I’m sure you know why. 😉
Sounds wonderful. Great captures too.
Thank you, Niranjan.
You caught the atmosphere of the desert so well, Aleah. I once lived in the desert for 10 years and was always amazed at stillness, the harshness and especially the sunsets.
I’m glad you also like the sunsets in the desert, Dave. It was just unbelievably beautiful to me. I didn’t know you lived in the desert. Where? Would love to read your account of it!
Amazing photos! Too bad our paths did not cross while we were both in Jordan! Love Jordan!
@Cacinda: I hope I get a chance to visit Jordan again. There’s so much beauty there!
Oh my what should I say? This is one of those epic trips that we can only hope to take. It must land near the top of your best or more exotic trips.
It is definitely my best trip so far. It’s difficult to imagine anything else topping it, unless I get enough cash to go to Antarctica 😀